Uzès France

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Elizabeth David said “Provence is a country to which I am always returning, next week, next year, any day now, as soon as I can get on a train.” I say the same. Every time I leave Provence, I dream and obsess of returning. Provence is my little addiction. This hot summer I took pleasure indulging in my addiction. I chose to explore what has been described as the secret side of the south of France, Uzès a small historic town designated  by the French government in the Gard department in southern France, about 25 kilometers north-northeast of Nimes.  I admired the lavender fields as I rode through southern France on a train from Paris to Avignon. At the Avignon train station Mr Arnold and I picked up a rental car and started our road trip to Uzès. As the sun was setting we stopped at a roadside shack that had a wood-fired pizza oven. We drank wine and waited for our pizza while we sat on a picnic bench admiring party dressed young people pouring and drinking wine. We ate our pizza, drank more wine and  conversed with a local French woman who was on her way home from work as a trapeze artist. Our drive to Uzès continued through the golden hour and the industrial look of the utilitarian highway faded into charming stone towns and vineyards. As we drove into Uzès two people were yelling at us because they were warning us there is no driving in Uzès! It is a stone town that has existed for nine centuries long before cars. We checked into La Maison D’ Uzès, a three hundred year old gorgeous stone house starring  as a boutique hotel. Mr Arnold and I walked up a seventeenth century staircase to our room. We couldn’t help but hear infectious loud music. We went outside to investigate where the music was coming from. It was everywhere! There were stages set up all over town. Flamenco, house, rock, latin, big band, It was Fête de la Musique, an all day all night musical celebration that happens every summer solstice. Everyone was partying! We immediately joined in, grabbed a few bottles of wine and danced all night. Late the next morning we woke up and enjoyed coffee and the most gorgeous pastries at La Fougasse D Uzès, wandered the village and popped in and out of shops. When the heat turned up we hopped into the car and drove the vine-covered, sun-baked countryside in search of the winerys a sommelier had suggested. We visited, tasted wine and stocked pur picnic basket at Les Vignes L Arque and Domaine Les Lys. For dinner we dined al fresco on Michelin stars at La Table D’ Uzès.  Sleeping way past the sunrise we finally woke up, put on our bathing suits and added a few more items to our picnic basket from a local cheese shop. We drove a tiny distance to the ancient Pont Du Gard, set up a picnic on the banks of the Gardon river, and plunged our bodies into the cooling water, peacefully we floated under the Pont Du Gard, well into the sunset. The next morning we packed our car and left Uzès. I’ll return, next week, next year, any day now as soon as I can get on a train.

One thought on “Uzès France

  1. Pretty nice post. I just stumbled upon your blog and wished to say that I have really enjoyed browsing your blog posts.

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